The Fickle Turnip

There are those who do not believe the turnip is an edible vegetable.

I am here to testify one need only embrace the adage ‘add enough butter to anything and it will be delicious.’ Follow this advice and the turnip will become a frequent guest at your table.

You will be quite surprised to find the turnip can express an exquisite and stunning array of flavors to tantalize the unwitting palate. But the turnip is a fickle temptress, for as fall creeps in, they develop a more feisty nature, and their bite is sharp enough to scare away the novice eater.

Pictured above is the Hakurei turnip. This variety is always a sure bet. It will never strong-arm you, never wrestle your taste buds to the mat.

I have discovered that most any variety will retain a mild character if they resemble the Hakurei in their snow-white beauty and petite size.

My father cooks them for us. My job is to cook the greens, which, when prepared correctly, are tender and taste just like broccoli rabe. I love two-fer veggies. Beets work the same way.

I’ve watched Dad modify the recipe over the past few months, principally by changing the amount of butter in the upward direction. Here’s the gist of the braise:

Ingredients

• 2 bunches small white turnips (purple is a sign that they have crossed over into a more revved-up mode of pungency.) We halve them, or quarter them into bite-size pieces.
• 1/2 stick butter- this is the nominal amount, but frankly, i have never seen anything but a whole stick in the pot.
• 2 1/2 cups chicken broth
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• salt to taste
• 2 chopped scallions or 1 leek, minced
• 1 handful flat-leaf parsley, minced

Method

First melt the butter and add the turnips. Then pour in the broth and add the salt and sugar. Bring the pot to a boil, then lower the heat and cook without a lid until the turnips with are tender. Add the scallions or leeks, and the parsley, stirring to incorporate. Try not to break up the turnips. You can optionally remove the turnips and reduce the liquid. Serve the turnips in a large bowl and return the liquid if you have reduced it separately. Be amazed.